Like this time last year I wasn't blogging or else i would have linked you to an older post but i trust in any fashion mag or website you follow and you'll know why am saying that while reading the rest of the post. Just like last year Riccardo Tisci didn't give a show but a presentation of his collection, this year it was a kind of exhibition where he hung the clothes so that both reviewers and clients take their time enjoying a close look at every single detail or even touch the garments, a dream coming true for some and for us, front and back photos in the same room as last year (in the Place Vendome ). This year's inspiration was Japan, " not the land of obis and geishas but the Japan of robot toys and the dancer Kazuo Ohno" who had a big influence on the designer and became his muse. Ohno provided the designer with the romance, the melancholy and the palette while robots influenced the appliques, the shoes and the huge hats designed by Philip Treacy (who also designed the Armani prive hats for SS12 as well). Last year the embroidery and applique where in the shape of a skeleton, made with ceramic and bones (and i am quite sure if i pick any dress from last year's show you wouldn't notice at the very first second), this year with the same base of dress, the story changed and one of the dresses took 2000 (two thousand) hours of cutting and 4000 (four thousand) hours of sewing (a total of 250 days), another pair of trousers had 90 meters of Plissé. Birds wings in feather and applique in shape of a Japanese crane, a cross in the middle of a robot's face, Swarovski stones... Actually Tisci knows a runway show wouldn't allow anyone to appreciate the fact that the skin-tone patterns are actually made up of thousands of matte sequins, or to see that the beads on the pale lavender pleated dress are actually pearls wrapped in georgette. You had to be at nose-to-fabric distance to get any of that—or, indeed, reach out a finger to check how the heads of the appliqué cranes on the white-and-lemon sheer dress were partly cut from multilayers of organza, with their wing tips made of padded embroidery. Unfortunately all I can get is a look at these amazing pieces via Photos (thank you Joseph Nicéphore Niépce and Vincent and Charles Chevalier for inventing the camera).
The good news (or bad, I dunno) is that “There will only ever be one of these dresses made, each one for the woman who chooses it. There is no ‘side collection’ hidden in the back. But I work with clients to add things they want.” The hard work and the creativity and techniques Tisci is showing in his collections even though is breathtaking but this time i think it needed some twist, something to give it life specially that the inspiration came from a Dancer and from Robots, isn't it supposed to be joyful?
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